Patagonia Expedition Race - Race Overview

Race overview: By Jacqueline Windh Patagonia Expedition Race has so far run three summer races – non-stop expeditions in 2004 (500+ km), 2005 (600+ km) and 2006 (700+ km). This is their first ever winter race – they hope that this will also be an annual event for the southern winter. Because of the short day lengths (7 hours), the format is a staged race.Race course details and disciplines:The shortest day on the course was 3.5/5 hours for the fastest/slowest teams, and the longest day was 8/12 hours. Although some of the stages, at < 6hours, might seem short from afar, in this extreme environment the racers found them to be plenty – especially considering that they were camping and cooking their own food (or just not eating) at nights.The disciplines were: mountain biking (using studded tires on cleared or at least travelled gravel roads – always covered in ice and sometimes with a fair bit of snow), trekking and snowshoeing (simple navigation involved, pretty much all off-trail, some easy terrain but also some very tough terrain with soft deep snow, some high country, some forest with lots of fallen logs), and sea-kayaking (one Class I down-river section, one ocean (fiord) section, one lake section). Terrain and conditions:Patagonia has a reputation for crazy winds – but the race organizers were right. Winter is the calm season. The first two days we had some overcast skies, a bit of wind, and light snow flurries, and for the rest of the race it was clear skies and absolutely no wind. The incredibly calm conditions make for the most fabulous ice formations, both on the snow surface and on every twig and branch and blade of grass: big crystals shaped like feathers everywhere!Temperatures ranged from cold to very cold – never above zero. Our coldest days were probably –10 or-12 C, and our coldest night was –23 C. There was little snow on the ground for the first three days (Torres del Paine) but quite a lot once we got to Tierra del Fuego.Race organization:It is too bad that, now in their third year and after having produced their fourth race, that this organization still does not have a major sponsor. I do hope that this situation will change. There is no real money – the main support for the race comes from the many small local tourist-oriented companies (hostels, hotels, boat tour operators, van-rentals) as in-kind support. Unfortunately, this means that some things are not done the best that they could be – for example the food situation in camp and some of the transport conditions.Race Director Stjepan Pavicic has a core of volunteers who work incredibly hard – many of them have been with him since day one – and these great people make up for what the race lacks in other areas. They have good hearts, are kind and helpful, and truly work their butts off before and during the race. The entire race organization is about as opposite from some of the other major race operations (e.g. Raid, PQ) as you can get – at times haphazard and chaotic, but with lots of charm and genuine warmth. True and enduring friendships are made here – and I know that from personal experience.Race organizers continue to have difficulties with time estimations (I think it is just a Chilean thing) and with clear and consistent communication. Our travel day to Tierra del Fuego was tough on everyone – most of us did not have an idea of how far we were going, or where we going to eat or sleep. Race days at times started late – something very significant when there is so little daylight. Organizers are completely aware of these problems, and hopefully they will be worked out in future editions. Is it real “adventure”?YES YES YES! If you are the kind of racer who is looking for real adventure, then you need to look at this race series. I don’t think that a race of this type could even be put on any more in North America, Europe or Australia/New Zealand (because of liability issues). I read with interest recent comments made by champion team Merrill/Wigwam to checkpointzero: “Too much is being done [to ensure safety], the concern over liability is in danger of making these races into track meets.” (Ian Edmond)“They [the races] haven't been the epic adventures of previous years, they've lost that "out there" feeling. Too many pure speed sections, fewer sections that require real navigation skills.” (Robyn Benincasa).This race is truly different – for better or for worse. Even if the race were well funded, the absolute ruggedness and remoteness of the terrain will always make for an element of true danger here. Being fast and strong are not enough alone to win you this race. It is every bit is as much an expedition as a race – and by an expedition, I mean that people who set out on it must be knowledgeable and experienced in the terrain that they are travelling in, they must have good judgement, and they must carry appropriate gear. Going fast and charging ahead will NOT win you this race, and it could even endanger your life. (If you have not already read my report about Ruben and Verónica’s frostbite experience, caused by going fast and light without respecting what this environment really is, please have a look. And also look at reports for PER Summer 2005, when world champion canoer Jérome Daille brought his team LA CLUSAZ off the water to camp, while other teams paddled into the raging wind. Many of them ended up in life-threatening situations and had to be rescued – while LA CLUSAZ paddled in to the PC early the next morning, the only team to complete that section).If you want to do this race – what you need to know:First of all, it is REAL adventure. Whether you are coming for winter or for summer, make sure you know your disciplines. As I have said a million times, this race is not a “track meet”. Tactics, experience, and wise decisions make all the difference – both for winning the race as well as for ensuring your own safety. There are times in this race where you will be out of sight and out of contact from race organizers for many hours (winter race) or even for several days (summer race).If you are to be sea-kayaking, having strong arms is not enough. Make sure everyone on your teams has practised rescues in REAL conditions – in rough and cold water. (If you cannot do it at home, come down a few days early – PER will lend boats for that purpose). Make sure that at least one person on your teams knows about the ocean and about navigation and reading sea and weather conditions.If you are coming for the winter race, make sure that you are all well equipped for cold conditions in difficult terrain. In this recent winter race, most of the teams travelled well and safely. The slower teams INACAP and SOIJEN, who spent several hours longer on the course every day than the leading team, and the teenagers from QUETRO (who have less experience in years, but took an attitude of great respect for the savage environment and for the abundant advice offered to them by race organizers, fellow racers, and friends and family) all competed in this race without a single health problem: no accidents and no frostbite. If you are coming for either race, summer or winter, you absolutely MUST realize that this is true adventure, with minimal support. You must respect that – on penalty of losing life or limb. Even if this race were funded at the level of the Raid or PQ, between the terrain and just what infrastructure is available (almost no helicopters – anywhere), in the case of an accident it is possible and probable that an evacuation could take days to effect. Having the experience and wisdom to always travel safely, and to carry the appropriate equipment (and know what to do with it) in case of an accident is essential. I cannot repeat this enough. Teams who did the best had lots of spare (dry) clothing – e.g. Diego hiking that last day with FOUR pairs of gloves.Because of the truly intense and challenging environmental conditions, this race has a very different spirit than many other races. Many PER racers tell me that they are forced to help one another, simply to survive the experience. While the competition between teams is still bery real, there is also a strong comaraderie that develops amongst all of the teams during the event.This race is definitely not for everyone. Aside from fitness, it requires a high level of experience, and a level of respect for a truly wild natural environment that I find lacking from some of the more competitive racers. But if you are one of the growing number of racers who is disenchanted by the fact that “adventure racing” has lost that element of “adventure”, then this could be the race for you.